Spanish Serrano Ham 》關於西班牙塞拉諾火腿的五個問題

西班牙火腿不光只有伊比利火腿, 也有另一款台灣人較不熟悉的塞拉諾火腿 ( Serrano Ham ), 這次很榮幸能採訪到西班牙豬肉廠商和侍肉師關於塞拉諾火腿.
There are two types of Spanish Ham – One is Serrano Ham, and the other one is Iberico Ham. I have the opportunity to interview Spanish Pork Venders and Maestro Cortador regarding Serrano Ham.

 

這次在2019台北國際食品展覽會西班牙館, 西班牙豬肉業聯盟不僅安排西班牙籍侍肉師現場切塞拉諾火腿, 也安排知名台北西班牙餐廳 “隱丹廚” 主廚們現場 Demo 如何將西班牙豬肉食材發揮到日常料理食譜. 這一篇文章主要是五個關於塞拉諾火腿的問題和侍肉師簡略談話內容. 另一篇文章則是介紹西班牙豬肉料理食譜.
At 2019 Food Taipei Exhibition, Spain INTERPORC arranged professional ham cutter to cut Serrano Ham. They also arranged famous chefs from ”Hidden by DN“ to do demos in order to teach Taiwanese how to cook Spanish Pork in daily meal. This article would be focus on Serrano Ham. The other article would be regarding Spanish Pork Recipe.

延伸閱讀: Spanish Pork Recipe 》 西班牙豬肉料理食譜

圖片來源: 6/21 娜姐 Foodelicious – 活動現場

 

五個關於塞拉諾火腿的問題
Five Questions about Serrano Ham

 

1. 西班牙塞拉諾火腿與西班牙伊比利火腿的差異?

What is the difference between Spanish Serrano Ham and Spanish Iberico Ham?

最大的差別是塞拉諾火腿來自白毛豬, 伊比利火腿來自黑毛豬. 廠商提到 90 % 的西班牙國內火腿皆是塞拉諾火腿, 因此西班牙在地料理反而較常品嚐到塞拉諾火腿. 塞拉諾火腿價格較為合理, 但是工廠依舊有相當嚴格的工廠品質控制.
The most difference would be Serrano Ham is from white pig and Iberico Ham is from black pig. The vendor mentioned that 90% of Spanish Ham are Serrano Ham. You would see this type of Ham in daily dish in every Household in Spain. Even though Serrano Ham has reasonable price, but the manufacturers still have intensive quality control.

圖片來源: 6/21 娜姐 Foodelicious – 活動現場- 塞拉諾火腿

 

2. 西班牙塞拉諾火腿有官方認證的等級之分嗎? 用哪種標準來分級?

Is there certified classification for Spanish Serrano Ham? Based on what standard?

西班牙火腿的熟成是一種工藝的程序,同時受到最嚴格的食品安全控管。以賽拉諾火腿來說有三種等級,廠商和西班牙籍侍肉師都提到兩款火腿風乾醃製的過程都一樣, 如圖用鹽醃製, 冷藏再風乾, 西班牙火腿的官方等級分為 Bodega (風乾醃製 9 ~ 12 個月) , Reserva ( 風乾醃製12 ~ 15 個月) , Grand Reserva (風乾醃製 15 個月以上) , 廠商提到等級雖然是以時間來區分, 但是基本上重量越重, 風乾醃製時間越長, 其實品嚐起來皆是一樣口感與一樣品質.
Spanish Ham aging process is like designing and making art. It takes most intensive food safety quality control.  Both Maestro Cortador and the vendor mentioned that the dry curing process is the same (see the picture 1). The level of certified classification is categorized by the dry curing time. There are three types of level – Bodega (9 ~ 12 months cured), Reserva (12 ~ 15 months), Grand Reserva (above 15 months). The vendor mentioned that even though the classification is based on the dry-curing time. But, actually, if the bone-in ham is heavier, the dry-curing time would be longer. The taste is basically the same and same quality.

圖片來源: 6/21 娜姐 Foodelicious – 活動現場- 風乾醃製過程圖片

 

3. 如何包裝與保存西班牙帶骨火腿從西班牙海運至台灣/亞洲?

How do you reserve and ship Spanish Serrano Ham Leg with Bones to Taiwan/Asia?

首先要介紹的是腿肉有Jamón (Hind Leg)Paleta (Shoulder)兩種,前者公認風味較為肥美也因此價值較高。這次展場示範試吃的是賽拉諾火腿,它並非生肉,而相反的,藉由這可追朔到好幾個世紀以前先人開發的熟成技術,火腿在過程中表面的皮下發展出一層層肥油,會保護火腿內部的肉,並且賦予它代表性的油亮琥珀色。這些具有保護作用的肥油,在切薄片的準備過程之前會先被切除丟棄不可以被食用 (如同照片中所示)。火腿在分類之後以真空包裝並以冷藏貨櫃運送至台灣/亞洲.
Spanish ham has Jamon (Hind Leg) and Paleta (Shoulder). The Jamon is considered more delicious with more value. The ham cutter uses Serrano Ham Jamon at the event. It is not raw meat. As a matter of fact, the aging process skill and concept have been passed down by generations. Spanish meat vendor mentioned that there would be amber color coated appearances (as the picture shows) on the Jamon to protect the ham and fats inside. They then vacuumed-sealed to reserve the Jamon and ship in chill container for shipping to Taiwan/Asia.

圖片來源: 6/21 娜姐 Foodelicious – 活動現場- 完整包裝的西班牙塞拉諾後腿

 

4. 義大利帕瑪火腿與西班牙塞拉諾火腿的差別?

What is the difference between Italian Parma Ham and Spanish Serrano Ham?

兩者為不同的產品而應該以不同的方式來品嚐. 廠商提到義大利帕瑪火腿與西班牙塞拉諾火腿皆是來自白豬, 除了風土和生長環境不同外,風乾醃製的方式也不盡相同. 西班牙火腿較帶有肉香, 義大利火腿則是帶有少許甜香.
Most Taiwanese only know Spanish Ham and Italian Ham as European Ham. The vendor mentioned that both Parma Ham and Spanish Serrano Ham are from the white pig. Because of the terroir difference, the curing process is different as well. The Spanish Ham has more meaty flavor. The Parma Ham carries hints of sweet.

第一張圖片來源: 6/21 娜姐 Foodelicious – 活動現場- 西班牙塞拉諾火腿
第二張圖片來源: 義大利帕瑪火腿 – La Locanda 蘿莎娜小廚房

 

5.台灣近期西班牙豬肉進口量?

The data status of total quantity of exported Spanish Pork to Taiwan?

西班牙身為世界第三大豬肉出口國 (德國與美國之後) , 終於在2014年9月台灣衛福部食藥署正式開放西班牙豬肉進口, 以下數據不光是冷藏與冷凍豬肉, 也包括豬副產品, 醃製火腿和豬板油. 2018 西班牙向台灣出口量為 20,998 噸, 西班牙豬肉出口至台灣在近五年成長了四倍, 且逐年增加中. 近期台灣人藉由台灣眾多西班牙餐廳開始認識西班牙豬肉肉品.
Spain is the third pork export country in the world (after Germany and USA). At 2014, Ministry of Health and Welfare officially allowed Spanish Pork to be imported. The following status not only includes the raw Spanish pork, but also other parts from the pigs, cured ham and lard. The data shows that Spain export 20,998 tons to Taiwan. The quantity has been 4 times larger within 5 years. Also, Taiwanese learn more about Spanish pork through Spanish Restaurant.

延伸閱讀: 台北西班牙餐廳 》Spanish Restaurants at Taipei City

圖片來源: 西班牙塞拉諾火腿零售包裝

 

與侍肉師閒聊部分

Casual Chatting with Maestro Cortador

侍肉師與侍酒師皆是有專業名詞,侍酒師是Sommelier, 侍肉師則是 Maestro Cortador, 這次西班牙館請到侍肉師大賽世界亞軍 Antonio David Sánchez Pérez 現場做切火腿的 Demo, 我當然要掌握機會與侍肉師聊天. 多數台灣人都誤認需要去上專業學校才能成為侍肉師, 但是 Antonio 提到他只有去上一些課程, 並不是專業侍肉師學校, 大部分頂尖侍肉師其實都是靠經驗, 就如許多頂尖日本壽司師父都是靠多年經驗訓練而成. 西班牙籍侍肉師 Antonio 也讓我看他平常工作的刀款, 有包括切西班牙火腿外皮和脂肪, 具有彈性的刀款用來切片, 也有專屬磨刀棒, 每款刀皆有不同的用途.
Both Maestro Cortador and Sommelier are professional careers. They invited Antonio David Sánchez Pérez, the 2nd place of World Class Maestro Cortador competition. Antonio mentioned that he didn’t go to professional school to become a Maestro Cortador. Instead, he only takes a few classes But mostly, it takes years of practice to become the professional, just like a sushi chef. Antonio also shows his work tools. There are knifes for cutting the hard appearance. There is also a particular tool to sharpen the knife. Each knife has its own function.

圖片來源: 6/21 娜姐 Foodelicious – 活動現場-侍肉師和刀款

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♛ This is a promotion article, but state the true and sincere review.

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2019 台北國際食品展覽會西班牙肉品廠商名單

2019 Food Taipei Spanish Meat Suppliers

El Pozo

Website: https://www.elpozo.com/en/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ElPozoAlimentacion/timeline/

El Pozo 公司如今已創立 65年, 已是公認最知名西班牙肉品品牌, 廠商也逗趣地說, 每五家有四家皆可看到他們的肉品, 至於沒有看到的那一家應該是素食者. El Pozo 產品除了臘腸和火腿外, 也有生鮮豬肉等產品.
El Pozo has been established in 65 years. It is the most and well-known Spanish Pork brand. The vendor mentioned that people can see their brands 4 out of 5 households. However, the last one is probably vegetarian. El Pozo besides sausages and hams, they also have raw pork.

 

Friselva S.A.

Website : https://www.friselva.com/ch.html

Friselva S.A. 創立於 1950年, 也有出口各種豬肉副產品生產與加工.
Friselva S.A is established at the year of 1950. They also export Spanish Pork and other parts of pork to other countries.

 

Olot Meats Group

Website: http://www.olotmeats.com/zh/公司简介/

產品除了豬肉外, 也以多款豬副產品 (例如:豬肚), 也出口至相當多國家.
Besides pork, they also has different parts of Spanish Pork.

 

Batalle Meat

Website: http://www.batalle.com

 

Jorge Meat Group

Website: https://www.jorgesl.com/es

 

 

 

 

 

 

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