台北市無菜單日本料理餐廳並不多, 搜尋到業界知名阿田師所經營的“山花割烹”, 不僅交通方便(近信義安和捷運站), 也是今年才從敦化南路搬遷至信義路新地點. 這次有這個榮幸可品嚐到他們的料理.
There isn’t much “Special Chef’s Tasting Menu” Japanese Restaurants in Taipei City. What is “Special Chef’s Tasting Menu”? It means that the main chef decides today’s food ingredients. Therefore, each course might be different in daily basis. I found “Sanka Japanese Restaurant”. This restaurant is located near Xinyi Anhe MRT station and moved from Duanhua South Road to this new location. Now, I have the honor to try out their cuisines.
低調裝潢讓人很容易就錯過, 進入餐廳後, 裝潢風格偏原木色系. 與其他市面上日本料理餐廳不同, 長型冷檯比視線低, 可一覽師傅們細心地準備料理. 入座後便看到阿田師教導其他師傅們, 同時也熱心地與熟客聊天.
Different from other Taipei Japanese restaurants, the customers can clearly see the chefs prepare cuisine at the prepping table without standing up.
山花割烹晚餐屬於無菜單形式, 中午料理分為三種價位, 我選擇$880元的松花堂便當, 因爲菜單上寫著“每日限定十客”.
I chose $800 Bento since the menu mentioned the daily minimum qty is 10 units.
English Name: Bento Set
Price: NTD $880
English Name: Angler Fish Liver Tofu
日本豆腐是蛋製品, 而非黃豆, 饕客稱鮟鱇魚肝為海底鵝肝, 當端上桌時,師傅解釋料理作法為魚肝與蛋液混合後, 再蒸熟成型. 單品嚐一口, 精緻且滑嫩口感有著厚實海鮮味, 第二口則是搭配鮮橘色辣蘿蔔泥和青蔥提味. 雖然海鮮味稍微減弱, 但口感依舊綿密.
Japanese tofu is made by egg instead of soya beans. Foodies consider Angler fish liver as the foie gras in the ocean. The sous chef explained that after the liver and egg mixed together, it was steamed into square tofu shape. The taste is smooth and elegant with thick seafood aroma. The top of the spicy daikon and green onion garnish add more flavors into this dish.
English Name: Sashimi
與市面上生魚片不同的地方為“山花割烹”不採用冷凍, 因為冷凍會失去迷人的海鮮甜味. 從藍色碟中夾起一片新鮮生鮭魚片, 入口立即感受到日本人強調的第五種味道 – 鮮味, 同時也嚐到帶有海鮮特殊的微甜風味, 由於現磨山葵加醬油後風味容易減弱, 建議食物先沾醬油, 再放一些山葵泥一起入口.
Different from other restaurant’s sashimi dish, Sange restaurant uses non-frozen fresh fish. The reason is that after freezing, the charming seafood aroma would disappear. Taking a bit at the salmon sashimi, the tastebuds can immediately sense the freshness of the fish and also hints of sweetness. Pairing with fresh wasabi upgrades this dish’s flavor.
主菜: 前菜, 燒物, 煮物, 揚物
English Name: Main Course
這次的揚物為“鯛魚裹五色米炸物”與“紫蘇葉蝦肉炸物”, 搭配的不是溫熱天婦羅醬汁, 而是紫蘇鹽, 也就是乾燥紫蘇打成細粉加上天然海鹽. 鯛魚裹上五色米, 除了鮮嫩無刺肉質外, 也有顆粒口感, 出乎意料的米果風味在口中散開. 酥脆紫蘇葉包覆住紮實蝦肉, 兩者蘸紫蘇鹽後, 單純的鹹味襯托出更多鮮甜風味, 且不油膩.
This is not the average tempura. “Snapper Tampura wrapped with 5-colors rice” and “shrimp wrapped with purple perilla” are both stunning and creative. The pairing spice would be “purple perilla salt” instead of warm tempura sauce. The snapper is tender at the inside and crispy on the outside. The rice aroma also spreads all over the mouth when you taste it. The fried purple perilla is also crispy with tender shrimp meat inside. Both items are not oily.
燒物則是燒烤”太刀魚”, 也就是“白帶魚” , 逢夏季時, 太刀魚的脂肪較為豐富, 讓其魚肉較為肥美. 酥脆魚皮搭配多汁且鮮嫩太刀魚肉, 搭配微甜味噌與青蔥則是讓增加更多風味, 此道料理是我心目中四宮格裡最美味.
As for grilling dish, this seasonal fish item is called “belt fish”. After grilling, the fish skin becomes crispy. With enough fat, the fish meat is moist instead of dry. It tastes great pairing with miso and green onion garnish.
如同小籠湯包地, 蓮藕軟泥為外皮, 切塊干貝內餡口感與鮮味十足, 是這次光看外型就令人十分期待的料理.
The appearance is similar with steamed bun. The chef uses Lotus root to wrapped with dice scallop. Outside is soft and inside is dense and full of scallop flavor. This is the most surprising dish of all.
最後一個宮格裡最為複雜, 低溫烹調且帶有點脂肪的鴨肉, 佐芥末籽醬後, 鴨肉風味依舊存在, 但附加了顆粒口感與辛香風味. 秋葵中搭配米粒般的金山寺味噌, 清爽口味中也帶有豆與米的香氣, 新鮮章魚則是Q彈.
The last dish is a bit complicated. The duck meat with hints of fatness tastes absolutely delicious when pairing with mustard sauce. Inside the green okra, there is rice shape miso with fair amount of sweetness. The fresh squid is also easy to chew.
更值得一提的是山花割烹的炊飯, 以黏性較強的日本越光米搭配海鮮類再用陶鍋內燉煮, 每一口皆是飽實的口感, 若覺得不夠吃還可加飯.
The chef uses Japanese rice, which is sticker. It was mixed with seafood and stew in the ceramic pot. Every bite is full of seafood flavor. You can also add more rices if not enough.
Today’s dessert is Kuzukiri pairing with thick brown sugar sauce. The taste is excellent, which is smooth and has fair amount of sweetness.
Besides pickled dish and miso soup, Sanka Japanese Restaurant also offers Americano and Green Tea to complete this $880 set.
Restaurant Name店名: 山花割烹日本料理 Sanka Japanese Restaurant
Address: No.311, 4th Section, XinYi Road, Taipei City 台北市大安區信義路四段311號 (MAP)
Nearby MRT station: Xinyi AnHe MRT station 信義安和捷運站
營業時間: 星期一至日 12 pm ~ 2pm ; 6pm~ 9:30pm