JE KITCHEN 》台北東區米其林餐盤餐廳推薦

JE Kitchen 榮獲 2018 台北米其林餐盤, 也在我的台北大安區美食推薦名單裡, JE Kitchen 商業午餐價格是出名地合理, 我有這個榮幸可品嚐到廚師團隊準備的料理.
JE Kitchen is one of the The Plate restaurants at 2018 Taipei Michelin Guide. It is also at my recommended restaurants at Da’an District. I have the opportunity to try out their cuisines.

 

JE Kitchen 菜單在文末 JE Kitchen Menu is at the end of article

 

JE Kitchen 是少數國父紀念館捷運站餐廳之一, 位置在 “Olivia Coffee Roaster” 和 “PS TAPAS smoke house” 旁邊, 低調灰黑色餐廳外觀卻不難錯過, 室內裝潢和另一家在國泰醫院附近的 “nkụ Taipei” 有些相似, 內斂淺灰色搭配乾燥花與木色系桌椅, 也許這就是經典北歐風格裝潢, JE Kitchen 也相當適合約會.
JE Kitchen is one of the restaurants at Taipei SYS Memorial Hall MRT station. It is right next to “Olivia Coffee Roaster” and “PS TAPAS smoke house”. The restaurant appearance is grey-black but not difficult to notice. The indoor design is a bit similar with “nkụ Taipei”. Both restaurants are light grey color with dried flower and wooden furniture. Maybe it is the so-called North European Style. JE Kitchen is also suitable for dating.

 

延伸閱讀: 台北適合約會的餐廳 》Taipei Romantic Restaurants

延伸閱讀: 2018 台北米其林餐盤餐廳名單 》2018 THE PLATE MICHELIN GUIDE TAIPEI

 

多數台灣人認為北歐料理會聯想到鮭魚海鮮系列料理, 北歐料理並不是一種烹飪作法,也沒有所謂食材代表,北歐料理是一種理念,也就是”永續”. 因為北歐緯度高, 寒冷秋冬使用的食材, 皆是趁春夏季節先將食品醃製或乾燥或發酵, 秋冬料理才有食材可用. JE Kitchen 一剛開始是純北歐料理, 但畢竟台灣新鮮食材相當多, 因此對醃製食材多少會排斥, JE Kitchen 新主廚 Constant 與其廚師團隊調整菜單, 只將北歐永續概念用在少許食材裡, 間接搭配其他新鮮食材, 造就一道道精彩菜餚. 以下是晚餐套餐 (NTD $2280), 總共有 12 道菜餚.
Most Taiwanese assume that Nordic Cuisines are salmon related dishes. However, Nordic cuisine is more like a theme, which is to aim to make maximum use of ingredients. During fall and winter, people at Northern Europe always use the ingredients that are reserved back at Spring and Summer. But, Some Taiwanese do not like reserved food since there are too many fresh produces and food ingredients. Therefore, the new JE Kitchen Chef team revised and improved the menu. They only use small amount of reserved ingredients pairing with large amount of fresh ingredients. The following 12 dishes are JE Kitchen Dinner Set (NTD $2280).

 

 

佐餐麵包,煙燻奶油, 洋蔥

Bread, Smoked Butter, Onion
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍👍

在來 JE Kitchen 之前, 我已經知道這家餐廳的擺盤配色就像雜誌圖片般華麗,開場第一道設計卻是沉著含蓄, 淺褐色似乎意味著秋冬到來. 煙燻奶油結構相當紮實, 抹在鬆軟麵包後入口, 奶油香氣遠超過煙燻鹹風味. 一絲絲的金黃色乾燥洋蔥有北歐永續概念, 我會建議連同金黃色乾洋蔥一起入口, 會讓人食慾大增, 為之後的料理揭開序幕.
Before coming to JE Kitchen, I already knew the plate display design is as beautiful as Magazine picture. However, the first dish display layout is simple light brown color, which presents autumn and winter. The smoked butter is dense and perfect to pair with breads. I would suggest to spread the butter with the golden color dried onion. It would enlarge the appetite for the following dishes.

 

生蠔&甘草檸檬凍

Oyster & Lemon Infusion
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍

當我看到這道料理時, 心裡就想 “這就是傳說中JE Kitchen 色彩繽紛的擺盤啊!“ , 藏在底層的南非生蠔並不是主角, 主角是顯現出香港籍主廚 Constant 港式風格的甘草檸檬凍, 具有海鮮風味的南非生蠔反而能襯托出檸檬凍的微酸甜風味, 原本以為綠葉只是點綴, 沒想到是個性顯著的金蓮葉, 其食材帶來適量綜合苦味與辛辣風味, 一不小心就會蓋住其他食材.
This dish display design would be best presentation of JE Kitchen style. The Southern African oyster meat is hidden under the Lemon Infusion. The seafood flavor enhance the sweetness and acidity from the Lemon Infusion. However, the small pieces of Chinese Globeflower leafs releases fair amount of mixed bitter and spicy, which covers the perfect original flavor.

 

烏魚子 & 蔥 & 水梨

Bottarga & Leek & Pear
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍👍👍

看到菜單時, 腦袋不經意會想 JE Kitchen 廚師團隊如何運用這三個食材, 當店員端上這一道料理時, 秋冬聖誕樹上常看到的松針葉幾乎霸佔了整盤, 隨後才驚覺菜單上沒提到的酥炸洋芋球, 從側面可看到一絲絲的馬鈴薯, 最上層的新鮮香甜水梨片中和了中間的烏魚子經典鹹味, 上次吃到烏魚子是在台北米其林一星” 金蓬萊餐廳”, 如此中式食材出現在西式餐廳其實較少遇到, 其實烏魚子也是有永續概念, 因為是將水產鹽漬後乾燥. 店員建議用手直接拿炸洋芋球吃, ㄎㄧㄠˇ一聲後發現原來蔥藏在洋芋球內, 這是一道視覺味覺甚至聽覺皆具的料理, 我相當推薦這一道創意料理, 可惜並無單點.
It is difficult to imagine the Bottarga, Leek, and Pear together. The plate display is another surprise. Green pines spreads out the whole plate. Two crispy ball shaped fried potatoes are displayed at the side. The top layer of sliced pear pairs with the sliced bottarga in the middle. The flavor is just like fresh and sweet flavor pairs with reserved and salty flavor. Last time I ate bottarga, which is seafood reserved, is at “Golden Formosa Restaurant”. The leeks are in the filling. I would recommend this dish because it is much more delicious than expected.

 

蝦 & 南瓜 & 鹹蛋黃

Shrimp & Pumpkin & Salt-cured Egg Yolk
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍

在國外, 南瓜是秋冬的代表作品, 印象最深刻就是萬聖節南瓜. 墨綠色南瓜子鋪滿正方形木盤, 完整脫膜的南瓜塔擺設在中央, 原本以為塔裡只有日本甜蝦與鹹鴨蛋黃粉, 孰不知塔底部有綠色南瓜子泥, 一口咬下時, 日本甜蝦的鮮甜風味相當出色, 南瓜子泥與南瓜塔顯得稍苦但不至於蓋住甜蝦, 可惜將鹹鴨蛋黃的鹹味蓋住, 但此道料理美味程度依舊不減.
Pumpkin always represents autumn and winter, just like Halloween Pumpkin. The dark green pumpkin seeds are evenly spread at the square wooden plate. I thought there are only Japanese shrimp and salty egg yolk powder at the pumpkin tart. The first bite is full of refreshing sweetness from the Japanese shrimp. But, there are also dark green pumpkin seeds puree at the bottom of the tart. However, the bitter puree only covers the salty flavor from the egg yolk. It is overall still tasty.

 

鴨肝 & 接骨木花 & 薑

Foie Gras, Elderflower, Ginger
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍

鴨肝食材在西式餐廳常見, 如此創意擺盤在台灣相當少見. 淺黃色車輪餅上面烙印著 “ JE Kitchen”, 不難猜到鴨肝是內餡, 原本以為是因為鴨肝水份多, 將堅硬台式車輪餅轉化成為鬆軟口感, 後來得知麵糊是丹麥 Aebleskiver 麵糊配方, 新版車輪餅原本就應該蓬鬆和軟軟口感. 薑的辛香降低經典鴨肝濃郁風味, 可惜我找不到醃製接骨木花風味, 很明顯地被薑味蓋住.
Foie Grass is quite common in western cuisine restaurants. But, this plate display is quite creative and rare in any restaurant. “JE Kitchen” logo is imprinted at the beige color wheel shape pastry. Instead of classic hard and crispy texture, the new batch creates fluffy texture, similar with Aebleskiver Batch. Foie Gras is the pastry filling as expected. The flavorful ginger lowers the thick Foie Gras flavor, which is good. However, it is difficult to find the Elderflower aroma or flavor in this dish.

 

馬鈴薯 & 黑松露

Potato & Black Truffle
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍👍

這是一道湯品, JE Kitchen 主廚 Constant 一邊刨義大利黑松露一邊解說湯頭是用馬鈴薯皮與雞高湯熬煮, 我承認目光一直在黑松露刨片這個動作, 一道湯品裡的黑松露刨片比 “al sorriso 義式餐廳“ 蘆筍松露燉蛋還多.原本以為湯頭是像 “Wildwood Live Cuisine” 烤花椰菜湯一樣濃稠, 但實際上是較為稀釋, 獨特蕈菇風味勾勒出適量鹹味, 運用馬鈴薯皮做成湯將零浪費概念發揮淋漓盡致, 我蠻推薦這一道湯品.
JE Kitchen Chef Constant explains that the broth is made with potato skin and chicken broth. I admit that I was focusing on him slicing the Italian black truffles. The amount of truffle slices are more than the al sorriso Italian Restaurant“. The soup broth is not as thick as cauliflower soup at Wildwood Live Cuisine”. The special mushroom earthy flavor also brings fair amount of salty flavor. Who would know that potato skin soup can be the best presentation of Nordic cuisine them. I recommend this dish.

 

白花菜 & 蛤蜊 & 馬告

Cauliflower & Clam & Makauy
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍👍👍

讓我驚艷的並不是奶黃色白花椰菜與深藏不漏的蛤蜊, 而是環繞白花椰菜的花邊, 詢問得知花瓣形狀是用手工花椰菜莖捲起, 可以說是雖然是個配角但反而比主角更亮眼. 我從最上層開始吃, 第一口完全被白花椰菜的奶油香氣迷住, 第二口吃到蛤蜊多了一層鹹味, 第三口的九層塔與馬告醬汁並不會過嗆, 完全抵擋不了白花椰菜的奶油香氣. 這一道料理是眾多菜餚裡我最喜歡的一道菜, 但是因為是季節性, 應該只會出現在秋冬季節.
Honestly, I was surprised by this dish’s simply display. The flower petal design is hand-made with cauliflower stems. The first bite is to scoop up the white cauliflower and taste the full amount of the buttery flavor. The second bite is to sense the seafood flavor from the clams. I am glad that the Makauy sauce is not too powerful and cover other flavors. It is the best dish that I tasted among all other 11 dishes. However, it is a seasonal dish.

 

魚 & 羽衣甘藍 & 開心果

Fish & Kale, Pistachio
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍

酥炸深綠色羽衣甘藍就像個屋簷蓋著肉質肥美的紅糟魚, 隨後店員將少量 Buttermilk 淋在一旁, 並不會影響到脆度高的羽衣甘藍, 印象中的 Buttermilk 原本是乳白色, 但因多加了綠色羽衣甘藍油和深黑色魚卵, 讓醬汁有不同色調, 但整道料理的海鮮風味魅力不減反增.
The fried crispy kale is like a roof covering the Makassar fish. The staff pours in small amount of buttermilk at the side, which it wont influent the crispy kale. Unlike the regular ivory color, the buttermilk sauce is made with kale oil and dark fish roe. The dish’s seafood flavor is perfect for fish lovers.

 

牛小排 & 稻草 & 牛肝菌

Beef Short Ribs & Hay & Porcini
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍👍

吃到這道料理時, 我其實已經吃飽, 美國牛小排經過稻草油的洗禮後, 視覺上相當誘人, 值得一提的是稻草油是用煙薰奶油剩下的稻草再做成油, 也是一種零浪費的概念. 切一小塊炙燒牛小排入口, 味蕾被肉香與油脂包圍, 口感細緻相當不錯. 一旁的野菜和灑在上方的牛肝菌粉存在感並不高, 整道料理的光采完全被牛小排奪走.
I was actually full when this short rib dish is served. But since the image of the short ribs with hay oil is way too attractive. The hay oil is made with the leftover hays that were used by making the smoked butter. When eating the small cube of the steak, the tastebuds is immediately covered with meaty flavor and fats. Honestly, my attention is focused on the short ribs instead of the vegetables and the porcini powder on the top.

 

藍紋乳酪 & 石頭

Gorgonzola & Stone
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍

這是一道一年四季都有的料理, 因為對主廚 Constant 來說是具有意義, 黑白色搭配其實並不是刻意用對比色, 而是主廚最疼愛的寵物狗是黑白色. 這道料理的石頭其實是可食用的竹炭粉而製成. JE Kitchen 將藍紋乳酪作成冰淇淋, 濃郁乳酪風味依舊強烈, 間接主導整道料理.
This is a regular dish at JE Kitchen. The black and white theme is actually from Chef Constant’s favorite dog pet instead of yin and yen. The so-called stoned is made with editable bamboo charcoal powder. The chef made ice cream with gorgonzola. The strong cheese flavor dominate the whole dish.

 

鳳梨 & 味噌 & 發酵茶

Pineapple & Miso & Kombucha
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍

我很難想像將鳳梨,味噌, 發酵茶等食材一起融入甜點概念裡, 象牙白色冰淇淋是味噌風味, 但是風味極似香草冰淇淋, 我一邊查 Google “Kombucha”單字, 一邊看店員將少許發酵茶注入在這道甜點裡, Kombucha 在台灣的翻譯是康普茶, 是發酵紅茶飲料, 跟紅蔾一樣在國外相當流行, 但在台灣卻很少人知道,康普茶為單調冰淇淋帶來微甜風味, 鳳梨長條切片藏著綠色薄荷葉, 味蕾因為薄荷葉而感受到小清新, 這是一道相當特別的甜點.
It is hard to imagine to put pineapple, miso and Kombucha into the dessert theme. The ivory color ice cream is miso flavor, but I can only sense similar taste with vanilla ice cream. I was googling “Kombucha” while the staffs pouring the Kombucha into the dessert. Kombucha is a fermented black tea, which is quite popular at other countries. The tea brings small amount of sweetness to this dessert. The mint leafs are in between the long sliced pineapple. The tastebuds will become much more refreshing after tasting this dessert.

 

焦檸檬&榛果&檸檬馬鞭草

Burnt Lemon & Hazelnut & Lemon Verbena
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍👍

和上一道甜點擺盤簡直就是南轅北轍, 樸實不華麗, 讓我聯想到老式西餐廳的酥皮濃湯, 我將那一層用檸檬皮製作的脆薄餅皮敲開灑落在香草冰淇淋上, 碎餅皮搭配冰淇淋剛開始有點微苦, 但冰淇淋甜度和檸檬馬鞭草帶來檸檬香氣讓整體甜點討喜程度倍增,甜點的設計與美味兼具.
It is surprising to see the simple dessert display at my last dish. But, it is fun to knock the lemon skin thin waffle down. Inside the bowl, there is one scoop of vanilla ice cream. The start taste is a bit bitter due to the lemon skin thin waffle. But, the sweetness from ice cream and refreshing flavor from the Lemon Verbena upgrade this dessert to another level.

 

南非國寶茶

Rooibos Tea
Foodelicious 美味程度: 👍👍👍

飲料可選擇茶或咖啡, 我選的是南非國寶茶, 喝起來並不會乾澀, 久泡也不會過濃, 相當不錯.
There are tea or coffee options on the menu. I pick Rooibos Tea,which is not easy to get bitter.

*此為邀約文, 但撰寫的是真實感受

 

延伸閱讀: 台北餐酒館懶人包 》TAIPEI BISTRO GUIDE

 

 

 

餐廳: JE Kitchen
地址: 台北市大安區光復南路346巷48號 (Map)
捷運: 國父紀念館捷運站
電話: 02-2741-7115
營業時間: 打電話確認
.
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/jekitchen.tw/
.
Restaurant: JE Kitchen
Address: No. 48, 346th Lane, Guangfu South Road, Taipei City (Map)
MRT station: SYS Memorial Hall Station
Tel: 02-2741-7115
Operation Hour: Call to Confirm

 

MENU

 

 

相連文章

臉書留言

一般留言

發表迴響

你的電子郵件位址並不會被公開。 必要欄位標記為 *

這個網站採用 Akismet 服務減少垃圾留言。進一步瞭解 Akismet 如何處理網站訪客的留言資料